Ask a local what makes them proudest of their city and they'll probably mention the happy abundance of this element

Ask a local what makes them proudest of their city, and they'll probably mention the happy abundance of this element. Over 1,200 fountains spew forth at virtually every corner, and exactly 100 of these (recognisable by their squat shape and brass tops) supply spring water from high up in the mountains. From the viewing tower at the top, the vistas are spectacular, and there's a well-marked 90-minute hike along the ridge of the hill, past cattle with cowbells and traditional chalets, and on through meadows and woodland to Felsenegg, which is about 5km away. A cable-car runs from here to the station at Adliswill every half an hour, with connections back to the Hauptbahnhof.OUT TO BRUNCHConfiserie Spruengli (16) at Banhofstrasse 21 (00 41 44 224 47 11; www.spruengli.ch) is a Zurich institution, selling a mouthwatering selection of confectionery from its ground-floor shop. You can also enjoy an orange juice (Sfr3.80/£1.65) and omelette (Sfr24.50/£10.65) in the refined surroundings of its first-floor restaurant.A WALK IN THE PARKTo the south of the city centre, along the lake shore, Zurich opens up in two opposing curves of greenery. On the west bank is the Arboretum (17), with shady paths winding past jetties and yachts; on the east side is the larger Zurichhorn Park (18) - perfect for a lakeside stroll.CULTURAL AFTERNOONZurich's pre-eminent cultural landmark is the Kunsthaus (00 41 44 253 84 84; www.kunsthaus.ch) at Heimplatz 1 (19), a stunning gallery crammed with jaw-dropping works of art.

A 20-minute ride on the S10 train from platform 2 of the Hauptbanhof takes you to Uetliberg, a beautiful tree-topped hill to the west of the city that is popular with cyclists. There's almost too much to absorb in a single visit, with 20th-century masterpieces by the likes of Picasso, Munch, Monet and Chagall topping the bill. But Kirche St Peter (15) trumps them both by having the largest church-tower clock-face in Europe. Inside, the church feels very Swiss: plain, dark wood contrasts with brilliant white plasterwork on the ceiling. It opens 8am-6pm from Monday to Friday, 9am-4pm on Saturdays, and 11-5pm on Sundays - when there is a service at 10am.TAKE A HIKEOne of Zurich's greatest delights is its surrounding scenery; another is the ease with which you can take a walk in it. Ask for a St Galler Bratwurst mit Gold Burli (Sfr6/£2.60), and you'll get a sausage wrapped in paper, a bowl of mustard to dunk it in, and a crusty roll.

Then ask for a beer (Sfr3.90/£1.70), and you'll have something with which to wash it all down.TAKE A RIDERedefine the notion of freewheeling, and "rent" a bicycle for no money at all at the Velogate ( www.zuerirollt.ch), next to the Swiss National Museum (11). For traditional Swiss cuisine, in central traditional surroundings, try Kropf (14) at In Gassen 16 (00 41 44 221 18 05), where white-aproned waiters serve r? (Sfr25.50/£11) under a splendid frescoed ceiling.SUNDAY MORNING: GO TO CHURCHThe Grossm?er has its mighty twin towers; the Fraum?er (currently closed for refurbishment) boasts stained-glass windows by Chagall. Enjoy a game of table football before tucking into some tasty organic fare (Sfr21/£9.10 for pasta) and buying produce from the deli. After a couple of Jet Lag cocktails (Sfr15.50/£6.70), you'll only have to stagger about five metres to the Rathaus tram stop to catch the westbound tram 4 to Zurich West.DINING WITH THE LOCALSLes Halles (13), at Pfingstweidstr 6 (00 41 442 73 11 25; www.les-halles.ch), is a trendy restaurant converted from an old Peugeot garage in Zurich West.

But things don't get going until later in the evening, so start off with drinks at Wings Airline Bar and Lounge (12), a trendy hang-out at Limmatquai 54 (00 41 43 268 40 55; www.wings-lounge.ch). For a deposit of your passport and Sfr20 (£8.60), you have use of a bike (admittedly one branded with a big McDonald's logo) for six hours.AN APERITIFZurich West is where the bright and beautiful flock for clubs and bars. Here, from the top of Zurich's most recognisable landmark, you have a superb 360-degree view of the city.WINDOW SHOPPINGFor look-but-don't-buy extravagance, head for the elegant expanse of Bahnhofstrasse, where Louis Vuitton, Bulgari and Chanel compete for attention. Gawp at the prices, then head south to Burkliplatz (7), where a sprawling fleamarket is held every Saturday from May to the end of October (5am-4pm). In Zurich West, the recently opened Freitag Shop (00 41 43 366 95 20; www.freitag.ch), at Geroldstrasse 17 (8), is a tower built from 17 old shipping containers, and stocks a dazzling array of recycled handbags.LUNCH ON THE RUNFast food? For the finest, head to the Sternen Grill (9), a tiny outdoor eatery tucked away up Frieck Gasse, off Bellevue-Platz (10).